Log Archive

By: MJ Arsenault-Daigle

 Eco-Odyssey in Niue…

September 17^th 2011

Upon arriving in Niue, relieved at both setting foot in paradise and successfully bringing Ollie’s entire camera collection, we were taken over by the sweet smells, warm wind and crystal clear ocean awaiting our arrival.

Like most places on Niue’s ‘rock’ island, our new home at Matavai Resort is perched up on a cliff facing what seems like the biggest ocean I have ever laid eyes on. Dolphins welcome jet-lagged guests as we sip on fresh coconut juice and soon realize we have well and truly escaped into another world.

A good night sleep finds us fresh and ready to dive into the underwater wonders of Niue. Local dive operator, Dive Niue, is a small family run business, organized and cheerful, that will lead us on our ocean adventures for the next two weeks.

Their small zodiacs are hoisted up by crane and gently dropped into a small inlet where we will begin our dive trips.

Most of the coastline in Niue is defined by jagged limestone walls, which seem to pierce through the rich blue waters below. It is rare to find the luxury of a sandy beach from which to launch vessels, but locals have adapted to safely take themselves and adventurous visitors out to sea; and this will only makes our experience more unique!

Day 1-Out at sea

Dives: Snake Gully & Sepa

Southern Launch: Washaway Café ramp

Excited at the mere prospect of underwater clarity I had yet to experience, Niue’s ocean treasures were beckoning us to experience their magic. At first glance, it appeared the bottom of the seabed was within reach, when really it was well over 40 meters! Wow, it was already spectacular and we had yet to begin our decent.

Needless to say our scuba dives were remarkable, serene, and inexplicable. Sea snakes danced through the water column by the dozens, gliding and twirling around us as if to entrance their lucky spectators.

The water was so clear it felt like we were flying above a terrain of corals, ledges and caves, unaware of anything beyond the present moment. Recovering from ferocious cyclone Heta which hit the island of Niue in 2004, the underwater coral gardens are new and fresh, bursting with color and life; while creating shelter for an array of reef fish. From the tiny Neon, Butterfly fish, and Moorish Idol, to large Barracuda, Hump Headed Parrot fish and reef sharks, Niue’s waters give life to a thriving ecosystem, diverse and resilient.

To our great surprise, the presence of a pod of Spinner dolphins near our dive sites meant that our surface interval (e.g. period between scuba dives) would be spent following these acrobats of the sea as they curiously cruised alongside the boat, seemingly asking us to join them in the fun. Luckily for us, Dive Niue’s small Zodiacs are easy to maneuver and the perfect size vessel for attempting to allow guests to enter the water with these energetic mammals. Towed alongside the boat, we were able to experience the once in a lifetime feeling of swimming with wild dolphins. There are no words that can accurately describe or emulate this experience, but suffice to say it is heart-warming and mind-blowingly beautiful.

These animals emit sounds, they touch, and play, and lead one another through the ocean blue with careful consideration of each other’s well being. It is obvious they are a tight family unit, even with hundreds of individuals, there is a sense of camaraderie, family, and love which goes beyond perhaps what humans express to one another.

Around the island we go…

Sunday on the island of Niue is the sacred day of rest, a period during which the locals and visitors should limit their activities and keep a calm pace throughout the day. Our idea was to incorporate a bit of exploration within respectful limits and set off on a cruise to make our way around Niue. Given the size of this island, following the coastline by car can be done in a few hours; all the while driving at a moderate 40 kilometers an hour!

Niue’s geographical size is hardly indicative of the immense treasures it holds. From our first stop along the coastal track, the sheer magnificence of the limestone caves, crystal rock pools, and the fringing deep ocean exemplified the modest nature of the Niuean spirit.

Days 2,3,4,5-Out at sea…

Dives: Limu Twin Pools & Bubble Cave, Gothem City, The Chimney, The Dome

Our first week in Niue has been spent exploring the unique structures and composition of the seabed. Diving the fringing reef is an adventurous endeavor, often having us falling into deep holes, swimming under ledges, through canyons, and surfacing into massive underwater caves.

The character of the sea floor is at once enchanting and mysterious; mostly defined by huge rock walls, narrow crevasses, and ledges that seem to extend into the ocean abyss. Unlike anything I have seen before, diving Niue’s local sites is peaceful yet invigorating, and certainly transports you into another world few will ever see.

Although hard and soft corals grow in dense patches, life on the reef is still recovering from the harsh force of Cyclone Heta. The main feature of the underwater topography is the immense rock formations on which corals are beginning to regenerate. Along with renewed life on the reef comes a diversity of energetic and colorful reef fish, ranging from small Anemones to large Barracuda. We have had the joy of finding everything from Morays to Lionfish, to Flounder and a plethora of local Sea snakes. Special visits from patrolling white tip reef sharks are an exciting sight, although larger species of shark generally remain further out at sea where they can hunt bigger fish.

A surprising and breathtaking visit from a large Manta Ray is an experience like no other. These birds of the sea display grace and agility while conveying the power and strength of a great ocean creature.  Effortlessly swimming straight in my direction, I am transfixed on this stunning animal that greats me and fellow divers as we sit only a few meters under our dive boats. Minutes later and no one seems to even breath, until it finally vanishes from sight into the clear blue ocean sky.